6/1/23 And so it begins Williamsburg to Delaware City 270 Miles
Today is the day, the day my wife Carolyn, our Golden Doodle Shelby, and I start on America's Great Loop. For those that don't know what the Great Loop is, it is a 6,000 plus mile circumnavigation around the Eastern United States. Our goal this year is to make it up to Ottawa, Canada. (Keep in mind, our boat is small and we both like our space, so being confined for an extended period of time is going to be a challenge.)
We started today from the dock in our back yard. From there we went down the James River to Hampton Roades Harbor. The first part of the trip was great - calm water. However, when we made the turn at the Monitor and Merrimac bridge tunnel, everything went south. So much wave water on the windshield we could hardly see. Carolyn got seasick and swore that this was the end of the trip. 😝 Fortunately, everything is now fine after a glass or two of wine.
We spent the night at the Salt Ponds Marina, nice, but showing it's age. Their restaurant was closed so we went to the Deadrise restaurant over by Fort Monroe, joined by my daughter, son in law, and grandson who drove down from Williamsburg.
6/2/23 What a Glorious Day
You couldn't ask for a more beautiful day. A little bumpy in the morning, but things calmed down as the day went on. I was surprised at the number of large ships waiting to go into port. There must have been 100.
We are spending the night at Regatta Point Marina in Deltaville. Very nice..
6/3/23 As soon as we left Deltaville, the fog set in. One of the few times I've had to turn on the radar. It wasn't that long before the fog lifted and the sea was nice and calm. Nice trip to Solomon's Island.
When we got to Solomon's Island Yachting Center, we met up with another looper that has the same boat as ours, Darin and Beth aboard Piglet. They had just spent eight days at Old Point Comfort Marina waiting for the weather to break. After "Docktails" we headed out to dinner at the Pier restaurant, which was within walking distance. Food was good.
6/4/23 We left Solomon's at about 10:30 headed to North Point Marina at Rock Hall, about 60 miles. Trip was uneventful , which is usually good, but when we arrived we were greeted with a sonic boom. After several "Docktails", Carolyn and I took a short walk to Harbor House restaurant. Great crab cakes.
6/5/23 We woke up to a beautiful morning. The tide was very high. Flooding was evident in the streets and parking lot. We were on a fixed pier so several of the lines on the larger boats were really tight. It was time for coffee when disaster struck. So bad that continuing the trip was in doubt. The Keurig coffee make stopped working. What made it worse was when Carolyn told me to get out the backup coffee press and I told her I removed it to lighten the load on the boat. 😡 I prepared myself for a long 60 mile trip to Delaware City at the end of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal. Fortunately, once we got under way the beauty of the day changed everything to good.
Shortly after we arrived at Delaware City, I got a text message that someone tried to use my new credit card on Amazon and they were voiding my card. Nothing like leaving on an extended trip with a voided credit card.
Each day at 4PM the owner of the marina holds a captains meeting to review the conditions for the next day to traverse down the Delaware Bay to Cape May, about 55 miles. Apparently, the Delaware Bay is not your friend. The current is strong and when the wind opposes it you can get large standing waves very quickly. Also, once you start you are pretty much committed to run the whole trip. There is only one bailout along the way should things get too rough. I was impressed by how much data and thought goes into each days forecast. They refer to windows of opportunity based on the different types of power boats. Ours is a fast trawler, so if we get a three hour window we can run at 20 plus mph and make it. However, if one's boat is a trawler going 7 mph and the trip takes 8.5 hours, after three hours you are not going to be happy rocking and rolling. As it turned out, we decided to stay another day for two reasons. First, we would have a better window of opportunity, and secondly, one of the sponsors of the American Great Loop association was sponsoring a party for the Loopers.
Still in desperate need of a coffee pot, I convinced Carolyn and Beth to take an Uber eight miles to Walmart and get one. The coffee pot only cost $50 but the Uber also cost $50. What a deal.
The party was great. About 10 looper boats were in attendance. The band played music from the forties - even before our time.
This marina's dock is different than most. Instead of having slips, it has one floating dock that stretches as far as the eye can see, and everyone ties up to it. The canal is only about 100 feet wide and the water flows at an unbelievable. speed.
6/7/23 Delaware City to Cape May, about 60 miles
The window of opportunity for the trawlers started at six AM, so that is when we had a mass exit. There is only one dock at Delaware City Marina. One of the boats was a 45 foot catamaran that was facing the wrong way in the canal. You have to go out the way you came in. The boat was about 100 feet from a low bridge. The current was running about 4 knots. In order for the boat to leave, the boat had to be spun around in the narrow canal. In doing so, the boat got caught in the current crosswise and one of the lines could not be release because of the tremendous tension. The only thing I could do to avoid a calamity was to cut the one inch line, which I did, and probably saved a multi million dollar vessel.
We left Delaware City around 9 AM. We actually had about a five hour window of opportunity to traverse the bay in what was predicted to be almost ideal conditions. The 60 mile trip to Cape May was gnarly to say the least.
At Cape May we stayed at Utsch's marina. It's an older marina but it has the cleanest nicest bath facilities.
6/8/23 Cape May to Atlantic City, about 50 miles
We took off this morning in a sea of smog. The forecast looked good so we decided to run the ocean side to Atlantic City.
We stayed at the Golden Nugget Marina.
6/9/23 Atlantic City to NY Harbor, about 100 miles
The plan was to do the trip to NY harbor in two days. The first day was to get us to Manasquan Inlet, about half way. Then the second day would bring us to NY. According to Tow Boat, the Manasquan Inlet is a mess and difficult to navigate. They recommended making the run from Atlantic City all the way to NY. And, the only way you can do that is via the ocean.
As it turned out, the ocean couldn't have been nicer. Traveling at 20 mph, the trip only took 5 hours. We booked two nights at the Great Kills Yacht Club. This is a private club, very nice, immaculate bath facilities, and, best of all, it has a great bar...😜 Spent two nights.
6/11/23 Off to the Statue of Liberty
Today we took off to the Statue of Liberty with our buddy boat Piglet. The NY harbor was busy and the ferries were everywhere. Arriving at the Statue of Liberty concludes the first major leg of our Loop trip. Williamsburg to NYC - 500 miles.
6/11/23 The East River
If you are doing the Loop, once you pass the Statue of Liberty, you continue north up the Hudson River. Instead of doing that, we turned right heading for the Brooklyn Bridge and the East River. The East River runs about 16 miles in an Easterly direction where it turns into Long Island Sound. That is where I grew up. So, it was important to me to go back to my old stomping grounds, and even provide some insight of what it was like back in the late fifties and early sixties.
Long Island Sound at its widest point is about 22 miles across. The East River is about one mile across. When the tide is running, all the water in Long Island Sound has to squeeze down to go through the East River. This produces a 5 knot current. Displacement boats have a difficult time running against the current. As such, they always choose to run with the current. So, the current can be your friend.
When I was growing up in NYC, you couldn't get a drivers license until you were 18. So for me, boating was paramount. Fortunately, we always had a family boat. One of the outings I liked to do was to take our 21 foot inboard sea skiff out at night, load up with guys and girls, and head down the river to Hell Gate. It was there that I would shut off the engine and start flowing down the East River. The river at night was beautiful. All the lights reflecting off the river and especially, the UN Building, was impressive. Eventually, you arrive at NY Harbor. That is where you had to really pay attention. The ferries were merciless. It was time to crank up the engine, and fight the current home. To give a prospective of just how bad the current was, I remember one time seeing a large red nun buoy bent over, totally under water, wiping back and forth furiously.
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Brooklyn Bridge |
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UN Building |
Hell Gate Bridge |
Let's Go For A Swim
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Le Harve Yacht Club |
One day while I was working at the Yacht Club a large beautiful Chris Craft came in to fuel up. In the center of the boat, was a large salon. In it was a large red round leather bed. On board the boat were several scantly clad women in bikinis. The name across the stern in large gold letters read "PLAYBOY".
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The Hole In The Wall\ |
6/11/23 to 6/18/23 Long Island Sound to the Erie Canal
As you enter Long Island Sound, City Island is located just past the Throgs Neck Bridge. We spent the night on a mooring ball at the City Island Yacht Club. They provided very quick tender service that went to 11PM. Ate dinner at a local seafood place that was pricy, but extremely good.
The next morning we headed back down the East River toward NYC, but just past Hell Gate we veered off onto the Harlem River. This avoided having to go back through NY Harbor and put us on the Hudson just above the George Washington Bridge. After another 20 miles we stopped for the night at Half Moon Bay.
Our next Port of Call was Rondout, NY, and what I would call a real marine industrial town. Probably half the bricks, stone and cement used to build NY City came down river from Rondout. The town is quant and loaded with restaurants. It also has a neat Mariner Museum specializing on the Hudson River. We took a side trip to their Rondout Lighthouse. They also boast of having the first totally electric commercial launch approved by the Coast Guard (no back up power). We spent three days at Rondout.
From Rondout we continued upstream to Shady Harbor. This was a very nice marina, and lots of Loopers stay here.
The next day we again headed upstream to Waterford, NY. This is the end of the Hudson and you have to decide whether to go north up through Lake Champlain and the canals that take you to the St. Lawrence River, or go west on the Erie Canal. We spent two days here and took a side trip to Cohol Falls. The Hudson is about 200 miles long. It is tidal all the way up to the end. At this point, we have traveled 680 miles.
6/19 to 6/25 The Erie Canal - Waterford to Oswego
The Erie Canal is really neat. There is virtually no commercial traffic. The majority of the canal is wilderness. The speed limit is slow or slower. We did about 200 miles of the canal, which took a week. At Oswego, you have to decide if you want to continue on the Erie for another 300 miles, or exit into Lake Ontario, which is what we did. And, if you do the Erie, you must be willing to put up with going through locks, lots of locks. On the section we traveled, we went through 29 locks. At New York Harbor we were at sea level. At the end of the Hudson River, some 200 miles long, we only raised 30 feet, and that was because we had to go through a lock. Midway through our section of the Erie, we added an additional 400 feet. Then we started going down 170 feet to Lake Ontario. And, don't under estimate the importance of having "marriage savers" - wireless voice activated head phones.
There are many nice marinas along the Erie that you can stop for the night. However, there are also many places, town docks and lock walls, that you can stop for the night and pay nothing. We did some of each.
The only open water stretch along the Erie is crossing Oneida Lake, about 30 miles. Depending on the wind, it can be very rough. The day we crossed, it was calm.
6/25 to 7/8 Oswego to 1000 Islands
Oswego is one of the the entrances to Lake Ontario.
Our first stop after entering the Lake was Stoney Island. This is a good size island, several miles long. What makes this island so special is the my sister's husband's family owns the island along with Phillips Petroleum. On the one end of the island Phillip's has a resort. On the other end of the Island, my brother in law and sister have an old log cabin. We ended up spending a week there with nothing to do but relax.
From Stony, we continued on to Clayton, NY. Clayton is a another neat town that caters to boaters. We got here on July 3rd, so everything was booked. We had a reservation at a Marina, but found out at the last minute, that we had to go under an 8 foot high bridge. Fortunately, we found a marina that could put us up. It was great, and we got to watch a great fireworks display.
From Clayton, we continued on to the 1000 Island Yacht Club. This was a good choice, because it gave us direct access to Bolt Castle, and Singer Castle. Both of these castles are a must see.
When we left the 1000 Island club, we traveled about 30 miles to Kingston, Ontario. This brings our journey in the 1000 Islands to an end. Coincidentally, we have now logged 1,000 miles since leaving Williamsburg.
7/9/23 Kingston to Ottawa via the Rideau
Unfortunately, our departure to Ottawa has been delayed. Carolyn got sick and after three days I needed to get her some medical attention. I called the clinic in Kingston thinking that would be the best place to get her checked out. Their response was that it will cost $718 to have someone look at her, and all test procedures will be on top of that. The alternative was to go back to the US. The trip across Lake Ontario to Henderson Harbor, NY, where my sister keeps her boat, was only 35 miles. At 23 mph I was there in short order. Carolyn was diagnosed as having a viral disease and is recovering.
Ten days later, Carolyn is still not fully recovered. However, on 7/17/23 it is time to start our trek up the Rideau Canal. The Rideau Canal was built in the early 1800's. The lock mechanisms used then are still in use today, and are hand operated. After talking to several boaters, we came to the realization that the lower portion of the Rideau was prettier and more remote than the upper portion. The Rideau has a lot of locks that you have to "lock through". The good part of having a lot of locks is that you can tie up at any of the locks and spend the night. Most offer shore power and bath facilities. Going up the Rideau to Westport, we locked through 14 locks, and then did the same 14 locks on our way back down to Kingston.
After almost three weeks, Carolyn hasn't fully recovered. To continue across Canada via the Trent Severn Canal and the Georgian Bay requires being away from the US for another six weeks, a risk I am not willing to take. So, tomorrow we head across Lake Ontario to Henderson Harbor. That will be the end of our first season on the Loop. Our grandson, Mitchell is bringing the truck and trailer from Williamsburg to meet us. We will load the boat and trailer it home.
We have been on the loop for 53 days. To say that it has been a great adventure would be an understatement. I am emotionally distraught that our trip is coming to an end. We travelled 1,300 miles in 53 days and locked through 58 locks. We have met and traveled with many wonderful people who will be high on our list of good friends.
Next year the plan is to put the boat back in where we took out and continue our journey. The Great Loop is 6,000 miles of which we did about 20%. God willing, the adventure will continue.
The Adventure Continues 5/14/25
It's that time. After a two year hiatus, Shelby, Carolyn and I are committed to doing the next segment of the Great Loop. This time we plan to start at Madeira Beach, Florida, work our way down the Gulf coast, through the Everglades National Park, through the Keys, and then work our way up the East Coast. To get to our starting point, we will trailer the boat. The problem with trailering the boat 850 miles is, how do you get the truck and trailer back to Williamsburg. Fortunately, as luck would have it, my daughter Stacy and Son in Law Forrest are flying to Tampa to attend an AC/DC concert, something you couldn't pay me to attend. They have graciously agreed to drive my truck and trailer home.
I had the boat on the trailer in the driveway for the past two weeks to prep for the trip and to have the boat polished and ceramic coated. On May 14the at 7AM we proceeded out the driveway, only to run over our two large trash cans and almost take out our neighbors mailbox, for the second time. C'est la vie.
For the most part, our trip to Florida was uneventful, which is what I like. We did have one close call. I was trucking along down the Interstate at 70 mph in traffic, when in front of me appeared a dead animal, or what was left of it. I didn't think much about it and straddled over it. That is when my dash announced that the trailer was no longer attached. I knew that the trailer was still physically attached to the truck. What the alert meant was that the electrical cable that activates the six disk brakes on the big triple axel trailer was not working. The animal carcass had caught the electrical cable and pulled it loose. So here I am cruising down the highway at 70 mph with a 15,000 pound boat in traffic and no trailer brakes. Fortunately, I skillfully managed to coast to a stop on the shoulder of the road.
Madiera Beach 5/15/25
We arrived at Madiera Beach Thursday afternoon and launched the boat without incident. On Saturday, the 16th Stacy, Forrest and Taylor, our granddaughter joined us for a trip to Elenore Island. It is a sandbar where everyone goes to swim and drink. And, in our case, to get the boat stuck in the mud. That evening, Forrest took off with the truck and trailer. The next day, he and Stacy spent 17 long hours driving home to Williamsburg. A trip that should not have been more than 12 hours. I owe them big time. That morning, Carolyn and I took off for Bradenton, where we stayed at a Ramada Inn marina, breakfast included. The next day we traveled to Englewood Florida, and stayed at a newly refurbished marina called Chadwick Cove. That night we dined at a Tiki style restaurant with a live band and sand floors, called the Sand Bar. The next day took us to Captiva Island where as luck wood have it, the South Seas Island Resort just opened their marina. This is an upscale resort that has been completely rebuilt after being completely devastated by two hurricanes. What made it nice for us is that they have a beautiful beach on the Gulf were we enjoyed hours swimming with Shelby. Shelby, with her pink ears was quite the hit with everyone on the beach.
It's hot. Well, that is to be expected. Summer in Florida is going to be hot. We are now at Rose Marina on Marco Island. Nothing special about this marina. This being Memorial Day weekend, a lot of places were booked up. We wanted to stay in Naples, but couldn't find accommodations. So here we are. After we arrived, Carolyn, who I often now call JoC, wanted to walk the mile to town. Not a good decision. Very hot, and walking back carrying groceries really challenged us. The next day, we met up with my good friend since the fourth grade, Jim Visone. Had lunch and reminisced about all the things we did that we shouldn't have.
We have now left Marco Island and are in Everglades City at a very nice RV and Marina Resort. The RV's that come here are the million dollar motor coach type. The marina has 70 slips and we are the only boat here. On our way from Marco Island we navigated through mangrove islands and hammocks most of the day. The area is called 10,000 Islands, which may be an understatement. Once you leave Marco Island you leave the condos and city life behind. There is nothing here but what I call "The Boonies". Love it.
Yesterday, I thought the remoteness of this place was great. Today, I am not so sure. Found out that this place doesn't have any diesel. In fact, there is no diesel between Marco Island and the Florida Keys. So, I had to get five gallon jugs and haul fuel back and forth from a Circle K gas station. Also, to make things worse, there is no place to stay between where we are now and the Keys, which means that we have to make a 90 mile open water run across the Gulf. Keep in mind, my boat is only 30 feet and not a rough water boat.
Well, we are here at Marathon Key, staying at the Marlin Bay Yacht Club - very nice. The trip from Everglade City was horrible. It took five hours in heavy seas with no land in sight. We got beat up pretty bad. Right in the middle of the trip we got an alert alarm that exhaust temperature was too high and power was being reduced. Certainly not something I wanted to here. The Gulf had large areas of sea grass that we had to plow through. When we got to Marathon, the entire boat was covered in grass. The windshields were covered and even the top deck including the radar dome had grass on it. I cleaned the engine strainer. I'm hoping that will solve the high exhaust temperature problem. It was full of sea grass.
From Marathon, my
plan was to start up the East Coast. But, JoC wanted to go to Key West, so that
is what we did. We stayed at Stock Island Marina, complete with a beach for
Shelby, swimming pool, and a Happy Hour bar where we rediscovered Pain Killers.
We also spent one day in Old Key West and, of course we helped out the local
economy, especially Sloppy Joes.
The weather for
the next several days looked lousy. Not wanting to be stuck in Key West, we
took off for Marathon. Spent one night and again wanting to get up the keys we
took off for Islamorada. Our Auto Guidance plotted a course starting up the
Gulf side, then out into the Atlantic, then back to the Gulf side.
Unfortunately, it plotted a course under a bridge that a rowboat would have
trouble clearing. Not sure why it did that, the Nav System knows the height of
our boat. We back tracked and found a bridge with plenty of clearance. This is
where things get squirrelly. The Keys are notorious for shoaling. Channel
markers are not necessarily where they show on the charts. And, Auto Guidance
is a best-guess scenario. So, here we are wandering around trying to get to
Safe Harbor Marina. Never had a problem finding a marina, until now. The
opening for the marina channel, which we eventually found, was about 20 feet
wide nestled between two mangrove islands. So here we are, not sure where to
go, but every place we tried to go we ended up in very shallow water. Finally,
we found ourselves in the middle of a large basin, where someone pulled the
plug and let all the water out. I knew we were in trouble seeing all the sand
being churned up in our prop wash. At that moment, as unfortunate luck would
have it, the most horrendous storm hit us. The marine weather alert read, “35
knot winds, locally rough and confused seas, frequent lightning strikes,
blinding downpours, don life preservers, and get to port quickly.” We weren’t
going anywhere. We were caught and were being blown further aground. Mighty Mite
to the rescue, or should I say Sea Tow to the rescue. I couldn’t reach them on
the VHF, so I called their main number. They knew who I was, I guess from the
phone number, gave them my coordinates, told them what the problem was, and was
assured that the local Sea Tow would be in touch. In just a moment, I was
contacted and told that as soon as the storm abated they would dispatch a
rescue boat. In less than an hour, Tow Boat showed up, maneuvered their way
into the shallows, threw me a 200 foot line and pulled us off the shoal. They
even guided us to the marina. All in all, very quick, very professional, and
never had to exchange any insurance information. I’m glad I signed up for the
unlimited towing policy.
Up to this time, the weather has been great. Not looking good for the next few days, so we will hunker down on Islamorada, have a few drinks, eat some good seafood, and count our blessings.
Well, a few days have gone by and the weather is now looking good. So, off we go. Our next stop is Key Logo. Here we stayed at Gilbert's, who claim to have the largest Tiki Hut anywhere. The Tiki Hut restaurant is big and surrounded by water on three sides. Our Hogfish meal was super. They have a beach and a pool which we enjoyed. The only downside was that we had to side tie right on the ICW. It was a No Wake zone so we really didn't get waked. I didn't realize it, until JoC reminded me that we had been there a few years ago with our jet skis.
The next morning we took off for Miami. Our Auto Guidance took us up the ICW and then out into the Atlantic. The ocean wasn't bad and we got to see an impressive Miami skyline. Out guidance system then brought us back through the famed Haulover Inlet. If you haven't watched boats going through this inlet on Youtube, you need to do it. Haulover is also home for the Haulover sandbar party. This is the sandbar party against which all other sandbar parties are measured. It draws thousands of boats, and is also a good watch on Youtube. We stayed at the Bill Bird Marina, run by the city of Miami, and located right in Haulover Park. The Park is a mile and a half stretch of land bordered on one side by the ICW, and on the other side by a beautiful ocean beach. At one end is the Inlet. Next to the inlet is a great dog beach, which Shelby loved. Then there is a long stretch of regular beach, and at the far end is a clothing optional beach. This place has something for everyone.
After a few days, we headed up the ICW to Delray Beach. This, for us who like to average 20 mph, was a torturous long day, traveling mile after mile, through Ft Lauderdale, etc. in a never ending No Wake Zone. Other than the time factor, going through Ft Lauderdale and West Palm Beach is something to behold. Every house is more beautiful than the next, every yacht is more impressive than the next. There seem to be two basic boats in this area, forty foot center consoles with multiple engines and mega yachts, few of which are actually used.
Our next stop was Stuart, Florida, and the St Lucie Inlet. Nothing special about the marina we are staying at. We researched Sailfish Marina and Resort, which had all the amenities. However, when we booked, we booked with Sailfish Marina, which is a different marina without the resort part.
From Stuart, we journeyed up to Fort Pierce Inlet and stayed at Dockside Marina. The whole Ft. Pierce Inlet area is a Minimal Wake Zone. Now, what I consider minimal wake apparently differs from what the Coast Guard thinks. I'm not sure if the siren and flashing blue lights were all that necessary, but it got my attention. What could have been a fine ended up in a very pleasant curtesy inspection. As for Dockside Marina, it checked a lot of the boxes, swimming pool, waterfront restaurant and bar where Shelby was welcomed, and an a short Uber ride to a secluded beach. What wasn't good was the height of the dock above the gunwale of the boat. It was 3 feet at high tide but over 5 feet at low tide. I had to give Shelby a quick lesson in how to climb a vertical ladder. Getting back on was also challenging. She insisted on jumping the 5 foot drop down to the gunwale and then continue another 3 feet onto the deck.
Our next Port of Call was Captain Hirams Marina and Resort. Nice waterfront restaurant and bar that welcomed dogs and had live music. Also had a beach area where Shelby could swim.
We are now at the Port of Cape Canaveral. This is where many of the Cruise Ships are stationed. To get here we had to cross from the ICW to to the Inlet via the Canaveral Barge Canal, which include locking through Florida's only lock. I chose this place because it checked all the boxes, plus it provides great viewing of space launches, which we hope to see.
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